Tuesday, 5 May 2026

MISS ELAINEOUS VISITS WESTMINSTER ABBEY...

Despite living in London for over 30 years, I'd never actually been inside the behemoth that is Westminster Abbey!

Since the reign of Elizabeth I, the church has been known as a Royal Peculiar; that is with a dean not subject to the jurisdiction of a bishop, but answerable to no one but the sovereign.  
Standing next to the Houses of Parliament and the Supreme Court, Westminster Abbey serves as the link between Church and State.  As well as serving the nation, it has been used as the coronation venue of kings and queens since William the Conqueror was crowned, on Christmas Day in 1066, and other royal events take place here.  The most notable in recent years are:

The coronation of King Charles III (2023).
The state funeral of Queen Elizabeth II (2022).
The wedding of the Prince and Princess of Wales (2011).

It is thought that there has been a church on this site for over a thousand years, and we know that Benedictine monks lived here from 960 AD.  One story dictates that King Sebert (died 616 AD), who was king of the East Saxons, founded the church in 604 AD.  But stories such as that could have been embellished by monks claiming their abbey- or west minster- was older than the east minster; St. Paul's Cathedral.
We know that King Edward the Confessor (so-called due to his piety, and later made a saint) raised a church on this site, and it was consecrated in 1065.
The church as we know it was built in the Gothic style from 1245, starting at the east end, with the rest of the church demolished as work progressed westwards.  By 1272 some work had been completed but then stopped, and it was between 1376 and its consecration in 1516 that the new church developed, with the help of rich benefactors.   

The Great West Towers were completed in 1745, and are 225ft (28m) high.

Visitors enter via the north front, which was re-modelled  in the 18th century.  The church has faced many challenges.

It was not that easy to take superior photographs in the abbey- using a flash was prohibited.
War heroes are commemorated here, and there are many elaborate tombs throughout.

There also seemed to be way too many people shuffling forwards, and it felt like being on a human conveyor belt!

This is in the "musicians' aisle," as you enter...

Composers' memorials underfoot...

Scientists and polymaths are also commemorated in this area...

The rose window in the north transept was re-designed during Victorian times.

Here's one where I didn't have to duck around heads or avoid feet!  I do like these reclining effigies on graves.

Parts of Edward the Confessor's abbey remain beneath the floor of this version...

That abbey was almost as big as the present one...

Edward the Confessor's church was the first to be built in the shape of the cross.

The window over the Great West Door...

The grave of the Unknown Warrior was placed here in 1920, after being returned from France where he was initially buried with a wooden cross bearing the words, "An Unknown British Soldier."  He represents the dead of not just WWI, but of all wars.

Looking eastwards down the nave, and Westminster Abbey possesses the highest Gothic vault (a ceiling construction technique) in England, reaching 101ft (31m).

Artistic influences down the long nave are quintessentially English...

I sat down for a short while in front of the quire screen, but it was difficult to get a sense of "atmosphere" as there were just too many people milling around.

This shot shows off the Grand Organ (installed in 1937), standing sentinel above the quire screen.

This memorial is dedicated to James Stanhope; a Secretary of State during the reign of George I.

Isaac Newton's Monument...

Starry, starry night (yes, I know that's the name of a Don McLean song written in reference to a Vincent van Gogh painting!)  Stars in churches symbolise the heavens, and God's creation. 

Into the quire- which is a church within a church- and the choristers sit in these stalls.

The ceiling here is magnificent, but the history of the quire isn't all pretty...

In the Middle Ages criminals could seek sanctuary here, as the law could not reach them.  But in 1378 the King's men ignored this right and chased a prisoner into the quire, killing him by bashing his head in.
Looking back to the quire screen.

The High Altar, and the Sanctuary in front of that is where coronations take place.  To the right sits the tomb of An
ne of Cleves (the fourth wife of Henry VIII), but alas, I couldn't get close enough to see that. 
The medieval, mosaic, Cosmati-style pavement on the floor was laid in 1268.

Pulpit...

South transept rose window...

I do like the helmet in the centre of these chaps inside the Chapel of St John the Evangelist, which is one of several small, historic chapels in the north ambulatory.  Rather unsurprisingly, the helmet signifies high military or social status.

Closer view, and these are called funeral helms.  This is the tomb of Sir Francis Vere; a military commander. 

Around 3,000 people are buried at the abbey- there are 600 tombs and more than 300 memorial stones and windows.

The Chapel of the Holy Name.

This chapel was furnished by Abbot John Islip, and the stained glass contains medieval puns to his name!

The shrine of St Edward the Confessor is to the lower right of the photograph.

Tomb of Henry III, with floating swedes in the way (swede is a Norfolk slang term for head!)

Grille over the Chapel of Our Lady of the Pew.  
I love the way the "medieval" artistic theme, with its Gothic nature, is displayed throughout the abbey.

In this tomb I thought I was receiving a bit of supernatural interference- but it was only the electric lamp causing a ghostly glow across my photos when looking through the viewfinder!👻 

Intricate ironwork and stonemasonry...

I like the way the sun is spreading a fanlight onto this couple!

What I liked most about this grave was the little figures supporting the dead.  More about these little people later...

Ahead lies the tomb of Queen Elizabeth I (r.1558-1603). 

ER stands for Elizabeth Regina, which is Latin for Queen Elizabeth.
They are also my initials.  When I was a kid I asked my mum why my initials were on postboxes.  Isn't that vainglorious?!😁

Her coffin rests directly on top of that of her sister, Mary I (r.1553-58).

 This section is "Innocents' Corner," and here lie two daughters of James I; three-year-old Sophia and two-year-old Mary.
I wish I'd taken a better photo of the urn in the middle as it contains what are believed to be the bones of the "Princes in the Tower."  They are Edward V (1470-83) and his brother Richard, Duke of York (1472-83), who are believed to have been murdered by their uncle, Richard III.  Their bones were found underneath a staircase in the Tower in 1674, and were placed in the Abbey on Charles II's orders.


We are now in Henry VII's Lady Chapel, with its stupendous fan-vaulted ceiling.  High up, near the banners are the statues of 95 medieval saints (there were once 107).  The saints survived plundering by the Puritans in the 17th century, probably because they were beyond reach.

This altar was based on the Renaissance original, which was destroyed in 1644.  It dates from 1935.

Henry VII and his Queen, Elizabeth of York, lie within this grille, buried in the vault beneath this tomb.
James I (1566-1625) is buried in the same vault, but has no monument above.


King Henry VII (r.1485-1509).

Elizabeth of York.


The Queen's Organ dates from 2013 and is used for smaller services.

I like the way the figure at the front of this tomb seems to be making a beseeching gesture to heaven...

The RAF Chapel was dedicated in 1947.  I love the concertina effect of the windows.


The window commemorates those who died in the Battle of Britain, in 1940.  I didn't try and lighten this photo as I would have lost the detailing of the stained glass window.

Ludovic Stewart was a Duke who had royal ties and held a number of high-ranking titles over his lifetime.  The design of his grave is quite ostentatious, and to top it off there's an angel at the top blowing on a trumpet whilst holding onto another trumpet.


Henry VII's chapel is the chapel of the Most Honourable Order of the Bath.  Every four years new knights are installed and the knight's banner is hung above his stall together with his specially carved crest.

Further along, the large, ornate tomb belongs to Mary, Queen of Scots (1542-87).

These figures holding up the tomb in front are known as pleurants, or "weepers."

They are anonymous sculpted figures representing mourners.

Mary, Queen of Scots was executed on the orders of Elizabeth I.

Mary's son, James I, erected her tomb.

A crowned Scottish lion sits at her feet...

In the south transept sits a monument to Sir George and Lady Fane.

More traditional graves reside in St Nicholas's Chapel, where members of the Percy family (the dukes of Northumberland) are buried.  Incidentally, one member of this family was involved in the Gunpowder Plot of 1605, but he's not here (his exact burial place is unknown). 

Some graffiti has occurred on this memorial...

Back into the quire, and over 30 kings and queens are buried in the abbey; some in underground vaults.

In Poets' Corner, and here's a memorial to writer and Poet Laureate, Sir John Betjeman.

Poet's Corner contains graves and memorials of famous writers.
I know George Elliot (real name: Mary Ann Evans) is not buried here- she's in Highgate Cemetery.

The central figure is William Shakespeare, and he's not here either.
Ironically, I visited Westminster Abbey just after getting back from Shakespeare's hometown, Stratford-upon-Avon.  He's buried there; in Holy Trinity Church.

Charles Dickens is buried right here.

Actors and musicians are also commemorated here... 

Taking a walk out to the cloisters, which date from the 13th century...

This is the oldest door in England, and dates from about 1050.

Inside the Chapter House, where the Benedictine monks would meet each morning.
 
The Chapter House dates from the 13th century, and is one of the largest in Britain, measuring about 60ft across.


For a time during the later 14th century, the Chapter House became the parliament building where the Commons met.  This shows how important Westminster Abbey was in the life of the country.

Walking down the precinct overlooking the cloister garth, and I adore the automatic lawnmower tending the lawn.  I call these things (as well as automatic hoovers) "mechanical servants!"

The open door to the Pyx Chamber...

The Pyx Chamber dates from between 1065 and 1090, with the tiled floor dating from the 13th century.
The altar was, in the early 14th century, a workbench on which the annual Trial of the Pyx was carried out- that involved measuring the silver content of the coinage.

It is a vault with a double door, befitting its former use as the royal treasury.

Little Cloister...

View through the railings...

Attractive tree in College Garden, which is
 the oldest cultivated garden in England.

Staring back at the door into the abbey, and t
he monks would have grown herds to make medicines in this garden... 

...There would have been fish ponds in the garden, and targets for archery practise.

Westminster School sits next to this garden...

The Union Jack is  flying from the Victoria Tower, which is part of the Palace of Westminster.  Parliamentary bills are stored there.

St Catherine's Chapel Garden.

Staring through the railings at the cloister garth (a cloister garth is an open air garden or walkway, situated at the centre of a cloister walkway.)

I get my initials embossed onto things and- not to be outdone- the SuperDean gets his own little room!😉
Dean's Verger is another name for Head Verger; the person responsible for the liturgical organisation, care and security of a major church.

This portrait is the earliest portrait of an English sovereign.  It's of Richard II, and dates back to the 14th century.

The Coronation Chair dates from 1301, and was once sumptuously decorated, but over the centuries it's been badly abused.  King Charles III was crowned and anointed whilst sitting on this chair, in 2023. 

One final gawp down the nave...

Out of the Great West Door we go; and it's this entrance that's used for royal and ceremonial events, as well as by daily worshippers.

Out of the gates, and the tall pillar is the Crimea and Indian Mutiny Memorial.


The SuperDean gets a yard named after him as well!😉

I'll finish this blog with a shot of the Elizabeth Tower; which houses Big Ben, the great clock bell.

Westminster Abbey, I would love to return- I need to see Anne Of Cleves' grave, and get a better photo of the urn containing the Princes in the Tower.

Until then,

TTFN,

Miss Elaineous

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