VINTAGE: THE ART OF DRESSING UP by TRACY TOLKIEN

VINTAGE: THE ART OF DRESSING UP

BY TRACY TOLKIEN

THE BLURB:-

The kaleidoscope of fashion, ever-turning, ever new but never new- what goes around comes around- and rediscovering and reinventing the past is fun.

Clothes have always been a significant reflection of the cultural and political climate. Dior's extravagantly full skirts flounced in the face of postwar restrictions; the Seventies swung between hot-pants and maxis as the economy rollercoastered towards the power obsessed Eighties, when shoulder pads signified female presence in the boardroom. As retromania has conditioned trends at the start of the twenty-first century, the interest for fashions of earlier decades has hit an all time high, reviving a maximum of the Sixties: nothing is out because everything is in.

Tracy Tolkien runs the famous vintage clothes shop, Steinberg and Tolkien, in London's King's Road, where Balenciaga ballgowns rub shoulders with Op Art catsuits, and neat Jackie-O style pillbox hats contrast with flowing kaftans of the Beatles-in-India era. A graduate of the Courthauld Institute, Tracy Tolkien combines her talents as a writer with her passion for vintage clothes and jewellery. Her expertise combined with a wealth of specially commissioned photographs make Vintage an essential resource. It is also an invaluable international guide on what to look for and where to find the best pieces from every decade, with over six hundred shops in a source list. She knows how to recognise a vintage treasure in a stack full of second hand mediocrities, how to recreate the authentic look of everyone from Audrey Hepburn to Madonna, how to care for fake fur and delicate silks... Vintage is the definitive companion to retro style.

THE REALITY:-

I've heard this book described as pretentious and patronising and it's nothing of the sort- instead it's a very fun read and quite informative. But the mealy-mouthed blurb on the back is both of those aforementioned words, and that combined with its bad English (which I've done my best to correct for my review) is enough to alienate a potential reader. Which would be a shame.

Tracy Tolkien is married to the grandson of J.R.R.Tolkien (of Lord Of The Rings fame) and once operated the magnificent vintage clothing shop, Steinberg and Tolkien, in King's Road, with her father, Mark Steinberg (1927-1999). Sadly, rising rents forced the shop to close after fourteen years of trading, in 2007. I ventured into there whilst studying fashion 20 years ago, along with other such vintage clothing delights as Cornucopia, Blackout II, Rokit and another place down the Holloway Road (the name escapes me) right near to one of the betting shops I worked in as a student. I've no idea whether any of these others still operate as this was when vintage clothing was more niche, and before it became BIG business.  I've always preferred the unusual to churned-out mass market clothing so these were happy days for me.

I enjoyed reading through this educational-but-plush book, although it comes across as a bit dated (it was first published in 2000, after all) and learnt a lot with regard to designers I was unfamiliar with, and trends which may have escaped me- and I'm someone who's clued up! My only real gripe is that there was no mention of the Victorian or Edwardian times, the First World War era or the 1920s and 1930s. Even the 1940s got only a couple of pages dedicated to them. It would have been nice to see some pictures and stories with regard to clothing from this period, as I don't doubt that it's still out there. I didn't learn much about the pricings of any of the garments mentioned; but that's just subjective, as the cost anything will sell for depends on ever-changing fashions, sale and demand and the condition of each individual object. I did disagree with advice that suggested that, 'You can tailor to make something smaller, but not bigger.' Wrong! The addition of a clever panel of fabric can make a piece fit, but it will no longer be authentic. But, if you are not a dealer, why would you buy something if you weren't going to wear it?

My advice to anyone seeking out vintage pieces nowadays, in a world where place such as Portobello Road serve up tat for inflated prices, is pop into charity shops in good areas. You never know what cast-off treasures you might find- I own a pair of genuine Jimmy Choos my ex-partner found in a charity shop in Dublin for 8 Euros! With a variety of lovely photographs and informative text, this book is a very good read for anyone who likes their vintage clothing, and fashion in general. A bookcase stayer.

THE MOUSETRAP...

Agatha Christie's 'The Mousetrap' is the longest running show in the world, having run continuously in London's West End since 1952.  Written especially for the stage, and never released as a book or film, the play was supposed to be called Three Blind Mice, but had to be renamed as a play of that name had been shown before the war, and the producer insisted.

Set in Monkswell Manor- a boarding house- a detective appears and informs the gathered occupants that a murder has taken place at a London flat.  A notebook is found at the scene of the crime, with Monkswell Manor's address contained within it along with the reference, 'Three Blind Mice.'  Pinned to the dead person's body is a note saying, 'This is the first...'  The cute nursery rhyme theme is given a sinister bent as it is played, at intervals throughout the play.  The second murder takes place in the Manor... but I'm not telling you who!  This means that, of the remaining six occupants, everyone is a suspect and everyone a potential victim...

This play has attracted some criticism, and some have mentioned that it's old, tired, and should be retired.  I disagree!  It's typical Agatha Christie and is very contemporary for the time in which it was written, so if you like her work you will love this.  With a small cast of eight actors and the same set shown throughout, it is very simply performed with the classic Christie 'line-up and summing up' at the end.

St. Martin's Theatre is very small, with a lovely Art Deco bar behind the stalls.  I booked cheap tickets for a Thursday afternoon matinee, as an early Valentine's present for my SuperDean.  They cost £19.50 each for the Upper Gallery, right on the back row but they were refurbishing that section on the day so we were upgraded to the stalls, row C.  These seats usually sell for £52.50 each.  Result!😃  For this performance at a quiet time of year, week and day, the theatre was about 60% full, so that explains why the show's still running- if it didn't attract patronage it would cease to exist.

I found the story gripping and the actors certainly did their jobs properly and were very convincing.  What little special effects there were (mainly the weather) were fine.  Yes, if you want bells and whistles; space-age strobe lighting; ever-changing scenery; ear-splitting vocals; modern technology; gimmicks and fancy moves then this is not for you.  But it does what it says on the tin and had the classic Agatha ending twist that I did not see coming.  Then another twist.  I did manage to work out who the 'long-lost sister' was.  But, to the true, secretive nature of the play, if you're going to ask me who the murderer was, then I couldn't possibly comment....

Here is my picture of the theatre...

I did look into going to the much-talked-about Ivy restaurant.  They do a three course set menu for £28.50, which is not extortionate, giving the pretentiousness sometimes associated with this celebrity haunt...

...But the menu didn't excite me that much and the timings of the sittings wouldn't have worked with our matinee.  I can see where they really make their money, and that's through the drinks- even a teeny-tiny glass of wine would set you back six quid.  They also do that thing of adding 12.5% service to the bill, which I HATE.  If I want to tip, I'll decide exactly how much, thank you very much.

So, we headed back to Ilford and had a lovely Indian meal and a delicious bottle of house white at the Golden Curry, followed by an Irish Coffee.  Superb!

TTFN

The Miss Elaineous

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ISLAND OF SECRETS by PATRICIA WILSON

ISLAND OF SECRETS

BY PATRICIA WILSON

THE BLURB:-

'As I remember, the story started on the fourteenth of September, 1943...'

All her life, London-born Angelika has been intrigued by her mother's secret past. Now planning her wedding, she knows she must visit the remote Crete village her mother grew up in.

Angie's estranged grandmother; Maria, is dying. She welcomes Angie with open arms- it's time to unburden herself, and tell the story she'll otherwise take to her grave.

It's the story of the German occupation of Crete during the Second World War, of horror, of courage and of the lengths to which a mother will go to protect her children. And it's the story of secrets that broke a family apart, and of three enchanting women who come together to heal the wounds of two generations.

THE REALITY:-

This is totally and utterly based upon true stories- those whispered to the author by the oldest women of Amiras, Crete, during the author's time as a resident of that island. And what a history lesson it is! It's about events I'd previously not known about, not being an intense student of the Second World War.  But learning about such things via a novel's teachings was a really fantastic way to find out exactly what went on. Truth disguised as fiction? Definitely.

It is not a pretty story. It's a story about deprivations, suffering and the kind of atrocities those of us who haven't experienced war, or an occupied country, really do not understand first hand. Nobody should have to understand that first hand, as it's an abomination; which parts of this novel describe searingly truthfully.

The only problem I had with this otherwise great read is a bit of confusion with regard to the characters: who was related to whom, who didn't know they were related to whom and who found out who they were really related to... and so on. I think you get the picture! And with new people thrown in from left field, and several different generations on the go, it sometimes got a bit muddled. Generally speaking, though, there was a good mix of interesting people and a twisting turning, gripping storyline. I wouldn't describe this as unputdownable; rather a book like a soap opera- one you could shove to one side and reconnect with, but where you sometimes had to backtrack and ask questions to work a couple of things out.

I enjoyed finding out about the social history of Crete, with regards to both wartime and the modern day- what people ate, what people wore, what their beliefs, superstitions and customs were, etc.  The main characters, Poppy and Angelika, were very real and likeable and threw up some interesting scenarios in their mother/daughter relationship. And that's all I'm telling you! Read it yourself- it will be worth the effort.

MISS ELAINEOUS VISITS THE INTERNATIONAL DOLLS HOUSE MUSEUM...

The International Dolls House Museum is next to the Caspian Hotel (of Hotel Inspector fame) in Ealing and is run by the same family...

In September, I went to see this boutique establishment about some writing work and ended up in a group photo with the friendly owners.  Nousha Pakpour Samari (BEM) is the third from left; her son, Samandar, the second from the right and local MP Rupa Huq is second left.  I am the spotty gal (my top, not my face!)

I returned this week to visit the museum.  Rupa Huq has also written a magazine piece about the museum, to which she gave the title 'Secret Ealing.'  The title I would give to this little hidden delight is 'Small but perfectly formed,' as this is exactly what this museum is.

Established in 2008, the museum is only open on Saturdays, although it can open at other times for groups and special events.  Entrance is free but donations are always welcome.  This side of the business is run by Nousha, who gives talks to groups of children- especially about costumes- and gets them to discuss, write and draw about their experiences.  For an additional £2-3 per head, the pretty dining/ meeting room in the Caspian Hotel is always available for refreshments for such groups.

The museum began its existence because Nousha thought it unfair that west London had nothing, whilst east London has the V & A Museum of Childhood- which I visited very recently and here's the blog link:-

 http://elainerockett.blogspot.com/2018/12/miss-elaineous-visits-v-museum-of.html

The International Dolls House Museum consists of one room only, and is nothing like the size of the aforementioned Museum of Childhood, but I believe that's where its beauty lies.  There are lots of intriguing things here and it's rather like having a root around your favourite antique shop!

Here is my first view of the museum...

The blankets in the prams are all handmade.  Nousha's background is in fashion, hair and beauty.  She has taught the latter two disciplines and used to have her own boutique showcasing her handmade organic, washable, cotton lace creations.  One of her favourite quotes is, 'Every wardrobe should have one lace outfit.'  Lace is very much in vogue nowadays, largely due to the Duchess of Cambridge's gorgeous wedding dress and her personal fashion style.

The dolls are displayed in what appears to be quite a random fashion and it helped enormously having Nousha explain exactly what was what.

This cutie was right by the door...

I liked this languishing doll but found the piece of wood it was reclining on quite scary- rather like a threatening winged figure!

Some of the dolls and dolls' houses have been created by the Lady's Creative Centre, which Nousha founded in 1990.  The idea behind it is to help women find their place in the community and release their talents, and its motto is 'Unity in Diversity.'  She runs such activities as art and craft workshops, yoga and dance classes, computer and internet classes and also teaches English.  It's about women from all over the world, of every nationality, living here in London; sharing skills.  It is supported by National Lottery funding and local government and business.

These doll pictures were created during one such workshop...

...As was this lovely haberdashery...

The attention to detail inside is immense...

To add contrast, the back is a painted-on scene...

I had to squat and hold the front open with my elbow to get a picture of this dolls' house!

The museum abounds with super-cute miniatures and I loved this Humpty Dumpty.

Lady with a poodle...

Angels...

Handmade goods.  For 13 years, Nousha has hosted International Creative Day, which is usually held in the Caspian Hotel, on the last Saturday in June.  This year, however, to mark the occasion of the Royal Wedding, it was held in Windsor.  Stallholders pay a basic fee of £20 and showcase their goods.  Traditional teas, coffee and ice cream are available and there is music and dancing.  Although it's aimed at females and female stallholders, men are welcome!😃

The message behind it is that creativity is important- it's in everything we do.  The event encourages people to feel good about themselves.

Teddies...

Teddy calendar...

These dolls' houses represent the four seasons...

Metal miniatures...

I loved these shoes... But then again, I'm a shoe obsessive and I would!

Doll cabinets...

This is an 'expect the unexpected' kind of museum.  Here's what I christened 'Cornucopia Corner.'

...Which had an interesting niche behind it...

International doll cabinet...

The museum is called 'international' because dolls of all nationalities feature.  My favourite piece in the whole museum was the Spanish doll.  I adore her beautiful, multicoloured dress.

Russian dolls...

Japanese cabinet...

Nousha first came to England, from Tehran, in 1968, so it's probably no surprise that this Persian doll is her favourite.

These toys are battery operated and move.  In the corner, we have Jim Royle...

Bikini dolls...

I found the dolls in this cabinet quite scary...

Garden scene...

There is a story behind this doll.  It was a lump of plaster which Nousha found in the street.  She painted it and transformed it, just to show her friend what a bit of creative thinking and application can do.

Random decorations include these flags...

...And this Christmas tree outside in the small meeting room.  It's near the end of January, so maybe it should come down!

In the back room, here is the Lady's Creative Centre 'Unity in Diversity' motto...

An embroidered version...

One of the disciplines Nousha teaches is dolls' house repair, and here's one badly in need of some TLC.  It's a very good way for a young person who wants to become an interior designer to practice their creativity.  I just managed to catch her in the photo too!

The International Dolls House Museum will not take up much of your time as it's so small- half an hour to an hour at most.  But I can see it appealing to children (especially little girls) and lovers of the unusual, who like having an explore and engaging their senses.

It's definitely worth popping in if you're in the area, although maybe not something you'd go too far out of your way for- unless, of course, you combined it with a visit to another tourist attraction.  The London Museum of Water & Steam is nearby, in Kew, as are the magnificent Kew Gardens and Syon Park.

I've blogged about the latter two, and here is the link to the Kew post :-

http://elainerockett.blogspot.com/2017/08/

...And the Kew pagoda:-

http://elainerockett.blogspot.com/2018/07/miss-elaineous-visits-kew-gardens-again.html

...And here is the Syon Park link:-

http://elainerockett.blogspot.com/2018/06/miss-elaineous-visits-syon-park.html

TTFN

The Miss Elaineous

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