CATHERINE WALKER, An autobiography by the private couturier to Diana, Princess of Wales

CATHERINE WALKER

An autobiography by the private couturier to Diana, Princess of Wales

THE BLURB:-

When Diana, Princess of Wales, announced the auction of eighty of her evening gowns- most of them designed by Catherine Walker- the French-born, London-based designer was thrust into the spotlight she has long eschewed. In an elite industry considered a “loss leader,” Walker is one of the few profitable designers with an illustrious and devoted clientele. At the top of Walker's remarkable long list of clients stood the Princess, whose signature look was created by walker.

Catherine Walker's career is a literal rags-to-riches tale that transcends fashion. In a poignant, distinctive voice, Walker shares her experience of love and marriage, the grief of being widowed with two babies in a foreign land, her early days selling children's dresses door-to-door out of a basket, to a rule-breaking career among the stars and royalty, and her own battle with breast cancer.

The story runs parallel to the arrival of the young Diana, whose fifteen-year professional relationship with walker saw her develop from a fairytale princess to a style icon of legendary proportions. This book is a chronicle of two remarkable women who remained true to themselves, even amidst the pressures of the glamorous worlds of fashion and royalty.

THE REALITY:-

It's for personal reasons that I picked up this book- which I have owned for some 20 years- from my pile of fashion compendiums and revisited it. Catherine Walker was Princess Diana's favourite couturier and her story is very interesting, although (cynical me) couldn't help but think that life is certainly easier if you're middle class with a bit of money to spare; as well as having moved in the kind of circles which are apt to offer good business/ life advice.

Criticism aside, I did find Catherine Walker's tale inspiring, especially with regard to how she chose to run her business her way; selling directly to the public rather than going through buyers who are nowadays way too commercial. Whilst there's nothing wrong with making money, all too often the beauty of the garments are sacrificed because of it. Heavens, as someone who once worked for the High Street supply chain, I do realise that I would probably have been better off working in couture, as it allows for more freedom of creative expression.

The real delights in this book were photos of the beautifully embroidered garments, and the loving attention to detail- something which can all too easily become lost in mass market production. I do think it's obvious that Catherine Walker wasn't formally trained, though, as her sketches seem too heavy-handed, with often childlike details such as scalloped hems and horseshoe opening fronts of jackets. The London College of Copying- sorry, the London College of Fashion, which I attended- took a more methodical approach, and kind of veered away from anything even slightly different from the tried and tested norm. And that's a shame. I've seen the same quirk in Vivienne Westwood's work and she too didn't formally train, so fashion colleges could certainly learn something from these two. Both designers honed their craft by experimenting with construction and what works around the body, and I love them for both that and their individuality.

I have seen many of Catherine Walker's designs, in various fashion exhibitions over the years.  They do contain shockers, though- with this Princess Diana lace-back dress, surely a side zip would have been a better idea?  The pattern is totally misaligned, and it looks cheap.  My mother (a keen and knowledgeable dressmaker) even commented on it (very negatively!) when she saw this design at the V & A Museum.

Hmmm.  I'd expect better attention to detail with couture...

I once applied for a job with the company (I can't remember the role- I think it was a bit of everything; sample room, sales, etc) and posted (as was the way 20 years ago) my CV and covering letter on a Wednesday. I got my refusal letter that same Saturday, so that definitely comes under the "That'll be a no, then" category!🤣🤣🤣🤣  Their loss.

Heavy-handedness aside, this book makes for an interesting autobiographical read, and is a must for both Diana and couture fans.

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD: A LONDON FASHION (Published by the Museum of London).

 

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD: A LONDON FASHION

Published by the Museum of London

THE BLURB:-

Vivienne Westwood has come to be uniquely identified with London.  Its edge.  Its challenge.  Its endless clash of cultures.  She is Britain's most innovative post-war fashion designer, and her style is immediately recognisable.  Her clothes are bold, sexually charged, outrageous.  But Londoners who wear her agree: they are strikingly beautiful as well.

THE REALITY:-

It's a tad naughty of me to review this book, as I first read it over 20 years ago, after visiting the exhibition displaying her clothes, which was held at the Museum of London.  If I remember correctly, there was also an exhibition dedicated to British photographer Terence Donovan being held there at the same time, as well as their usual, historical artefacts, so it made for an interesting few hours.  I didn't buy this book at the time- no, cheapskate moi found it in a cheapie bookstore a year later, for the princely sum of £1!

I own Vivienne's Lady Dragon Heart Shoes (incidentally, they're not that well made- I had to Araldite one of the hearts back on, after a rather tipsy barman decided to try them on and have a little dance on New Year's Eve, but that's another story.  In defence of Ms Westwood, I don't believe her shoes are designed to be worn by drunk men...)

Here they are.💗

It was this incident that led me to revisit this book, and it's quite a charming composition; with the people (well-known and well-known to some) who champion her unique designs modelling them and telling us why they love them, as well as an introduction Q&A section from Romilly McAlpine (at the time the wife of the treasurer to the Conservative Party) who was the owner of all the gorgeous pieces at the exhibition.  At the back of the book we get to find out how the atelier is run, with a piece dedicated to the cut and construction of her garments (which Ms Westwood herself wears- how many designers actually do this?  It's been noted that so many create beautiful clothes then walk around always in black...)  We also have an interview with her artisan shoemaker (who predates VW's collaborations with the company Melissa; the innovators of the heart shoes, and other jelly shoes which have become one of her signatures.)  Talking of shoes, I've also seen the extreme platforms that Naomi Campbell fell off at a later display at the V&A museum, although I'm going off on a tangent now...

Always my favourite designer; partly because I was once a punk, in an era thought of as post-punk, and largely because she refuses to follow fashion slavishly and does things her way (I like to think I'm the same- I've no idea how I ended up, in a previous career incarnation, working as a designer for the British High Street!) I thoroughly enjoyed revisiting this book, mostly to feast my eyes upon some of her beautiful outfits and prints.  I also like the way her clothes are unashamedly sexual- such as her corsets and toe cleavage shoes- and celebrate female sensuousness.  This, in a world where so many prefer casualwear, androgyny and, quite frankly, bland outfits that "fit in."  Well, I'm not one to "fit in" either and if you've got it then you might as well flaunt it!

Quite an intimate look at a very individual designer, this is a must for any alternative fashionista out there.

A DRESS FOR DIANA by DAVID EMANUEL and ELIZABETH EMANUEL

A DRESS FOR DIANA

BY 

DAVID EMANUEL and ELIZABETH EMANUEL

THE BLURB:-

For the young designers, David Emanuel and Elizabeth Emanuel, it was a “fairytale come true.” Having only been introduced to Lady Diana Spencer in February 1981, the Emanuels quickly became favoured designers, leading to a telephone call on March 1981 that would change their lives forever.

THE REALITY:-

This book was released in 2006, to mark the 25^th anniversary of the royal wedding to beat all royal weddings- that of Prince Charles and Lady Diana Spencer, in July 1981. I bought it a few years later, for a few quid off either eBay or Amazon, but it was on sale at the recent Kensington Palace exhibition I visited, which featured this iconic dress.

It wasn't this dress that sparked my interest in fashion- that was already a done deal- but it certainly inspired me, and it was a pleasure to see it displayed (although I've seen pictures of it so many times before that it felt like I already knew it!)

That black Emanuel dress which Diana wore for her first official evening engagement was absolutely stunning (although it earned Diana a stuffy rebuke from the royal family, for being both too revealing and “the colour of mourning.”) I loved it, and it confirmed Diana's place as a trend-setter and forthcoming icon.

Here's a couple of PDFs of it, on her and on the stand...

It featured in the book alongside a couple of other pieces, but the core of the story is a well-documented dream from start to finish, giving up all of the intimate details behind the making of the wedding dress, the team and the background to the designers' career.

Here's my photo of the dress, taken recently in Kensington Palace.

The first married couple to show at the Royal College of Art, it was great to read how their careers progressed, and also the secret details of the going-on behind the doors of their atelier.  Whilst I'm familiar- coming from a fashion design background- with the workings and operations of a fashion house, it's interesting to view someone else's stomping ground, and to hear about their perspective.

The best aspects of the book were the design elements of the dress- the sketches, the silk, the lace and the embroidery; the vintage element of some of that lace and how the whole project was pulled together.  And, of course that fabulous 25ft train (still the longest in royal history!)

If you like wedding dresses and you liked Diana you'd love this account, which features some brilliant photos, of a truly fabulous project.

 

THE BEST ROYAL WEDDING DRESSES AND ENGAGEMENT RINGS...

 My interest in royal wedding dresses began at the age of ten, when Princess Diana walked down the aisle at St Paul's Cathedral.

It wasn't my first foray into fashion- that began at the age of five or six, when I'd copy illustrator Veronica Papworth's sketches from the Daily Express (like the one below) then play around with them, by re-designing the dresses, accessories and even the hairstyles.😀

Do you remember the cardboard cut-out dress-them-yourself dolls like these?

I used to draw around the doll then design my own clothes with tabs to fit onto her!

I was fascinated by the pageantry, and by the sheer glamour of Diana; who was young, fresh, beautiful and fashionable.  I'm know she wasn't the first royal woman to be all of those things, but she was the first I became interested in.

The recent launch of the Royal Style in the Making exhibition at Kensington Palace (which I'm booked in to see😀), which contains this iconic dress, inspired in me the need to share my favourites.

I have only shown British royal brides, as that's what I know most about (feel free to comment and educate me regarding foreign royalty of all cultures).

Most of the royal wedding dresses and engagement rings are pretty darn nice.  But, for me, only a handful really stand out and "speak" to me.

I've put a collection together (I don't think I need to point out that the majority of photos in this post are PDFs- I'm yet to be invited to a royal wedding!) 

Here's my top five, in order of loveliness... 

1

Sarah, Duchess of York, often got things wrong in terms of fashion- who could forget the black dress with that awful, duvet-like red satin wrap she wore for an evening event?  If ever there was a woman in need of a stylist, it was Fergie in the 1980s.

But here, in 1986, she nailed it just perfectly and looked the best she ever did.  I adore the fact that this Lindka Cierach gown sparkles and glistens, and find the gorgeous, simple neckline really appealing.

The back features a huge bow and it's magnificent.  It worked for this dress and Fergie made bows her signature.

2

This is the dreamy crinoline I adored as a child, discovered in a book my mum bought me of royal wedding dress sketches.  Worn by Queen Alexandra (then Princess Alexandra), consort to Edward VII at their wedding in 1863, and designed by Mrs James of Belgravia, my mum slung the book away without my permission.  Grrr, grrr and a thousand grrrs!

Princess Alexandra had the dress altered so that she could wear it again.  Here's a photo of mine, taken at the Fashion Museum, Bath.  It was actually the second time I'd seen this dress- the first was at a 2002 Kensington Palace exhibition of royal wedding dresses.  That exhibition also included the wedding gowns of the Queen, the Queen Mother, Queen Mary and Queen Victoria.

3

2018, and a stunning Peter Pilotto dress for a pretty girl with all her curves in the right places, and I love the deep V at the back.  It was designed that way, and the dress worn without a veil so that Princess Eugenie could show off her scar from surgery to correct her scoliosis.

This twist at the back is very modern, and the 21st century equivalent to a bow.

4

It was difficult choosing between Princess Beatrice's 2020 wedding dress and her sister Eugenie's dress for third place, but the more sophisticated neckline of Eugenie's just clinched it for me.

That's not to say that this is not spectacular- designed by Norman Hartnell and previously word by the Queen, Beatrice's dress was altered with the addition of cute puff sleeves and also appropriately lengthened as Beatrice is taller.

5

I couldn't not include the 1981 Emanuel dress which sparked my interest- the wedding itself was the royal wedding to beat all royal weddings.  As we all know, the marriage wasn't as much of a success.

After studying fashion I seriously considered working in the field of bridalwear.  Interesting, as I've never been in a rush to walk down the aisle myself, and if I did it would only be a small affair (a romantic elopement appeals).  I'd make sure my dress (something which could be dyed and worn again) was gorgeous, though!

Here's one that almost made my list, and it's good ol' Queen Victoria marrying her beloved Prince Albert, in 1840.

Interestingly, it's quite revealing in terms of being off-the-shoulder (like her daughter in-law, Princess Alexandra's was).  It's something that's not well thought of for royal brides nowadays, and that's a shame.

Incidentally, I've been asked why the wedding dress the Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton, wore is not amongst my list of favourites.  It was designed by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen.

I loved everything about her whole look, but not the high neckline.  I think a sweetheart neckline would have been so much better, and would have really complemented the theme of the gown; which was to resemble an opening rose.

Here's the back view, and the wonderfully intriguing obi train...

1

When it comes to engagement rings, this iconic sparkler, worn by Princess Diana and then the Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton, has got to be the best.  I even own a copy, worn as a dress ring.

Funnily enough, despite loving it, if I ever got engaged I wouldn't want a ring like this- I'd want a solitaire diamond.

2

Camilla Parker Bowles, the Duchess of Cornwall's Art Deco heirloom ring was once worn by Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother.

It's timeless and absolutely stunning, but to me more of a dress ring than an engagement ring.

3

This was designed for Queen Elizabeth II (then Princess Elizabeth) using diamonds hacked from a tiara once belonging to Princess Alice of Battenberg, the mother of her intended, Prince Philip.  

The queen wanted something she could wear every day, and so would I.  So, for my engagement, it would be a toss-up between this beauty and the next ring...

4

Princess Beatrice's solitaire was enhanced by Art Deco baguette styling on the shoulders.  Does this still make it a solitaire?  Kind of...

It was hard choosing between this and the Queen's ring for third place.

5

A Burmese ruby formed the centrepiece of Fergie's ring, chosen to match her striking red hair.

This one nearly made the list.  I liked it before the Duchess of Sussex, Meghan Markle, had it altered, though.  I just prefer a chunky ring to a flimsy band.  

If I ever get engaged I'm having a chunky ring, as I'd just bend or break something delicate!

An additional adorable, although this one was always just a dress ring.  This striking aquamarine has been worn by both Diana and Meghan.

In terms of veils, there are only two which have ever stood out for me, for much the same reason as each other.

This is Meghan with her 16ft diaphanous train, which was decorated with embroidered flowers of the Commonwealth, plus a Californian poppy to represent her American background. 

The Queen's sheer veil was similarly adorned but with scattered flowers, inspired by Botticelli's (c.1482) painting of Primavera.  I like the look of a sheer veil dragging along the red carpet/ chapel floor...

An update:- since writing this I've learnt that it's not actually her veil- it's a train sewn onto the shoulders. Oh well, I still love it!

From classic Veronica Papworth sketches to royal bridal fashion, as a teenager I then turned more mainstream, although as a punk/goth/ general weirdo I did once design a collection inspired by rubber and lace cobwebs (don't ask!)

I did end up working for the mass market, as a designer, but was always a bit too avant-garde to fit in properly.

Here's me conforming.  The middle gal's wearing my dress, designed for fashion chain New Look.

Here's one of my mood boards, which sat in my portfolio for years.

Here's a link to more:-

https://elainerockett.blogspot.com/2017/04/my-fashion-designs.html

Some older stuff, showing a bit of my wackiness, and I actually pulled this out of the bin to photograph- before discarding it!

Here's another link to more of the same ilk:-

https://elainerockett.blogspot.com/2019/06/my-fashion-designs-part-2.html

There was not enough work available in the ailing British fashion industry, so I had to move on.  And it worked, as I love writing more than designing- it's more academically challenging, and I need something meaty, to get my teeth into.

But I will always retain some interest in clothes...

TTFN

The Miss Elaineous

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BLINGTIME...

I haven't published many blog posts this year, and this will probably be my last offering of 2020.  Circumstances have meant that most of the kind of tourist attraction places I'd usually visit have been closed.  Plus, I had to devote my time to completing my year-long Creative Writing MA (which I gained a Merit in...😊) so most of my reading has been of academic texts.

This blog is a fashion thingumajig, showcasing some of my bling.  I'm a lover of anything glittery and glamourous, have a borderline-stupendous collection of costume jewellery and don't understand why anybody would want to dress in an understated fashion- overstate everything, darlings!👄

I have blogged about my finery before.  Here is my Titanic/ Caister Lifeboat jewellery blog:-

https://elainerockett.blogspot.com/2017/05/titanic-necklace-and-lifeboat-necklace.html

My flamboyant pink necklace blog:-

https://elainerockett.blogspot.com/2017/04/gorgeous-sparkly-pink-necklace.html

My bow accessories blog:-

https://elainerockett.blogspot.com/2015/01/beautiful-bow-bangle-and-earrings.html

And my selection of blingtastic delights blog (a couple of these pieces have given up the ghost and have since fallen to bits!)

https://elainerockett.blogspot.com/2014/11/all-that-glitters-is-some-kind-of.html 

This elegant diamante necklace came from a vintage fair at Valentine's Mansion, Ilford, and cost £3...

This came from a charity shop in Plymouth and cost £4.50.  I think the design looks rather Art Deco...

This was also from Devon- Exmouth this time, from an antiques/ junk shop.  It was £5... 

This was brand new,  £5 from Great Yarmouth's best shop, Bubblegum Boutique...

This was also new and £5, from Bubblegum Boutique...

This was £10 from Sainsbury's, and SuperDean bought it for me as a birthday present...

This was £4.50, from a charity shop in Camden Town.  It reminds me of boiled sweets...

This beauty was only 50p from a charity shop in Hayle, Cornwall.  Childish?  Maybe- but it makes for a cute summer bracelet...😀

I always wanted one of these Anne Boleyn style necklaces, but with my own initial.  Historic Royal Palaces were charging £50 for such a thing, so I thought balls to that, bought the ubiquitous B version from eBay for a couple of quid and applied my tools.  I'm lucky to have the initial that allows me to do that!

Here is my Charlie the Chocolate Magic Monkey modelling my skull necklace, which (as you'd expect) gets slung around my neck on Halloween.

None of the pictures I took using him as my model today came out well- overexposed/ underexposed/ lacking in detail etc...

I first saw a necklace like this in gold, in Blackpool, but wanting silver bought this from eBay for £12.

Here's me having a burlesque moment, modelling it (and nothing else.😉)  

I'm quite pleased with this photo as no filters were used and I think I look okay.  Yes, I know my roots need doing, but I've been going grey since I was 17 and it's not like it's something that's difficult to remedy, so I don't sweat the small stuff...

And that concludes my blingtime adventure...

Hopefully next year things will get back to normal.  I'm sure I can make a start by checking out some outdoor, easily accessible attractions...

Until then...

TTFN

The Miss Elaineous

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MY FASHION DESIGNS, PART 2...

I found these old designs whilst emptying out my fashion portfolio...

They're from a collection I put together entitled Flamenco Flamenca, and are inspired by both a (you guessed it!) Spanish theme and the film One Night At McCool's, which starred Liv Tyler and Michael Douglas. I think they're from 2001/2002 and it's Miss Elaineous at her tackiest and tartiest best!!!! 😁

It's such a shame that there's so little work left available in the British fashion industry. I had something quite fun and interesting to offer. 😞

I've entitled this post Part 2, as I've blogged about my time as a fashion designer in more detail.  Here is the link:-

http://elainerockett.blogspot.com/2017/04/my-fashion-designs.html

I'm tempted to make at least one of these up for myself- or at least revamp something I find in a charity shop/ source on eBay...

I had a pretentious tutor (now semi-famous) at the London College of Fashion who HATED the repetitive poses I drew my designs onto- I replied that I was a designer, not a figure-drawing artist, and the whole point of the sketches was the clothing!

These are gorgeously sexy, yet actually quite purist dresses, simple in their construction...

My portfolio always provoked strong reactions in potential employers- they either loved it or they hated it, just like Marmite (I'm a lover of that, too!)😁

I always found that after a horrendous interview with a hater- some of the faces I've seen pulled at my work (generally speaking by boring, overly-commercial directors) have been worth a few Kodak moments- came a paying job offered to me by a lover.

There's karma for you.

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