Hayle is a small town (population 8,500) situated in Cornwall and we spent a week on holiday there. If you're travelling directly from London Paddington it is only two stops from the end of the London-Penzance railway line, and the journey takes just over 5 hours.
Settlement in the area dates from the Bronze and Iron Ages, but it is often believed that Hayle was an important centre for the neolithic (the final age of the Stone Age) tin industry, trading with Irish and Breton people and also the Phoenicians. This evidence exists in the form of imported pottery including Romano/Grecian amphorae (containers for wine and oil). Although the Romans never conquered Cornwall, it is thought that they may have had a military presence in the River Hayle estuary.
But it is during the industrial revolution that Hayle really came to prosper, starting with the development of the modern quay in the 1740s; to serve the growing mining industry. The moving of the Cornish Copper Company- a smelter which had previously existed in nearby Cambourne- was so successful that a canal was built to bring vessels right up to the works. In 1779 John Harvey, a blacksmith, established his foundry on the other side of Hayle. It is best known for producing beam engines, which were exported all over the world. The rivalry between the two companies did, however, grow into open hostility!
Both the smelter and foundry operators invested in the nearby mining industry, although there was little mining around Hayle itself.
Isambard Kingdom Brunel was the engineer in charge of the Great Western Railway. Hayle station was re-sited, the old line closed (it had opened as a mineral railway in 1837) and the new line was opened in 1852. It is still in use today.
The smelter and foundry slowly declined, and Hayle Harbour was closed to commercial shipping in 1977, although it was still used by fishermen specialising mainly in shellfish.
Today, Hayle's position by the sea, and its three miles of gorgeous, sandy beaches have allowed it to prosper as a tourist destination. We stayed in Hayle Towans (towan is a Cornish word for sand dune) and were lucky, as the weather was glorious for May.
Hayle sits overlooking St Ives Bay and here in my first photo, taken the morning after we arrived. What a view to wake up to! 😊
It took us a little while to get our bearings. As we don't drive, we had to find a rustic route into town that avoided the main road (which I nicknamed 'life or limb road' as you risked both of these when walking on the section with no pavement, and on a bend, at that!)
There were two main ways down (I'm sure there are more, but we didn't have the time to find them all.)
The wider route of the two led us to the Copperhouse Pool, which is fed by the River Hayle. It was named after the aforementioned Cornish Copper Company, which ran the smelter, and other works, in the area from 1758 to around 1860. It looked very industrial and a bit unkempt and overgrown.
The Copperhouse Pool was created by building a sluice gate to impound tidal water, which in turn flushed the waterways clear of silt and sand. In the distance is local landmark, St Uny's Church.
The bridge over the Copperhouse Pool, which we had to cross to get into town. It was only a short walk. The pool is tidal, and the water was quite high that morning.
The walk into town only took about twenty minutes in total. The Hayle Viaduct was created in 1852 and is thought to be the only viaduct in the United Kingdom which crosses over not one, but two main roads.
The majestic White Hart Hotel, established in 1838, looks like a popular destination. We saw both live entertainment and Sunday roasts advertised.
The Old Foundry Chapel has been converted into an independent shopping centre, housing a range of quirky, interesting shops. Here is a balcony view. We stopped here one day for coffee and carrot cake.
The view down and over. There are shops dedicated to: antiques, vintage clothing, jewellery, books and modern designer fashion. The section at the end sold old hardware and vintage home and garden accessories; such as 1970s clocks and lamps. Whether the latter worked or not, God alone knows!
I had my very own treasure find... This pretty little colourful bracelet cost 50p from a charity shop.😊
An impressive tree in the community garden, which is attached to the Millpond in Hayle...
It is at the Foundry end of town...
Dean minding his business and trying to eat his Cornish pasty unmolested by greedy seagulls...
...Who were certainly hovering around and making their presence felt...
The ducks were more civilised!
A water system was used to drive a grist mill which fed the army of horses the foundry used to transport their goods over land.
It was one of the many industries that sprung up around the foundry, and these ruins are actually part of the old mill.
We visited on two days, and on both days the weather was pleasant. This is quite a pretty pond, marred only by the presence of ye-olde-plastic-carrier-bag floating around to the right!
Hayle Heritage Centre had a complete overhaul and re-opened in April 2017.
The Cunaide Stone was found, buried four feet deep, in 1843 by a workman digging a drive on the estate of company director Henry Harvey (1775-1850). He was the son of the founder of Harvey & Co. The site was once an Iron Age hill fort, known locally as 'Plantation' and the stone was displayed there; built into a wall. It was brought into the Heritage Centre recently, in December 2018, having long been labelled 'at risk'.
The inscription reads:-
Here in peace lately went to rest Cunaide. Here in this grave she lies. She lived 33 years.
But historians argue as to the exact translation of the Latin text, or even if it refers to a man or a woman.
What we do know is that it's a rare, 5th century burial stone.
A little bit about its discovery is pinned to the wall here...
The first room is dedicated to ancient Hayle history (plus we have Dean's big fat swede looking over the top of the information board)...
...and Cornish excavations and archaeological finds...
The other large room is dedicated to industry. As you would expect, the Cornish Copper Company (who also operated as an iron foundry) is heavily mentioned, along with its fierce and bitter rival, Harvey & Co. Isambard Kingdom Brunel also features, along with sections about Hayle Power Station and wartime Hayle.
Cabinet of artefacts...
Outside, and you can see the remnants of the foundry...
Harvey & Co.- who ran the foundry- and the Cornish Copper Company were two very hostile competitors who both sought a monopoly over the town...
Beyond the foundry are attractive, modern housing developments...
At one time, Harvey's workers had to buy their provisions from Harvey's Emporium, which in turn prohibited independent businesses from developing...
...Thankfully, this practice ended and new shops were quickly established.
I've no idea what went on in this section, but you do get a real sense of history from strolling around...
This rather quaint building is right behind the foundry. I'm not sure, but it might be office space run by Harvey's Foundry Trust, which is dedicated to the protection of Hayle's heritage...
We visited Paradise Park, which is an local animal sanctuary, devoted mainly to birds. I have blogged about this separately, so read all about it here:-
https://elainerockett.blogspot.com/2019/05/miss-elaineous-visits-paradise-park.html
We also took a stroll down the King George V Memorial Walk, which again deserved its own blog:-
https://elainerockett.blogspot.com/2019/05/miss-elaineous-visits-king-george-v.html
Hayle Towans, and far in the distance is Godrevy Island. The lighthouse on the island inspired Virginia Woolf's 1927 novel To The Lighthouse...
Her family had a holiday home in St Ives, which sits on the corner of this headland...
The steps down onto the beach ran directly from our holiday centre...
Then the path became sand. It's quite steep, but manageable...
St Ives Bay.. The water looked absolutely beautiful and Mediterranean...
I had a paddle and the water wasn't exactly warm, but not freezing either. That, I am told, is the effect of the Gulf Stream.
We weren't alone, but the beach wasn't exactly crowded- which is just how I like it!
Godrevey Island fascinated me. You can take boat tours from St Ives that take you right near to the lighthouse, and also around the corner to a bay where seals live...
I saw them advertised in St Ives but, maybe because it was not yet high season there was no-one around to advise. Let's put it this way, if there had have been, and a tour was about to leave right then, I would have jumped on the boat without quibbling!
Beautiful ocean...
These photos were taken using my phone, the same day...
I blew this one up. It's not great, but it gives me an excuse to come back to Cornwall...😉
The Bluff Inn (bluff means a high cliff) which was situated between at least two holiday centres and a selection of guest houses. Incidentally, they serve fantastic potted crab!
This route to the beach, behind the pub, was concreted and easier than the sandy, steep Towans climb. This was my second walk along the beach that week.
This was taken after I had finished. It was a couple of hours later and the tide is reaching right up onto the rocks. This, to me, typifies the Cornish coast- sandy beaches which become coves when the tide comes in and the rocks cut you off from surrounding coastline.
But in the morning, it was easy to walk round...
I took this trip solo. This is a holiday cottage at the end of a road adjacent to the pub...
These little coves fascinate me...
A closer, nosier view...
I knew the tide came all the way to the rocks as there was a puddle of water on the ground. The shaded water in there was actually very cold.
There is actually a triangular opening in this section of cliff, right in the centre of the photo...
Closer in, and these rocky inlets are very Poldark-esque...
The undulating sand was quite hard to walk on...
Looking up towards the Towans...
The day was still warm, but more overcast than it had been on my previous beachcomb...
Squally sea towards St Ives...
Lonely footprints. But I was very happy. There is a BIG difference between being alone and being lonely. Some of the loneliest I've ever felt in life has been when surrounded by people who I really don't want to be with...
My aim was simple: to get as close to Godrevey Island as was viable...
After walking (briskly!) for half an hour, I was as near to the lighthouse as I needed to be- then the long walk back began...
The small hut indicates the Towns beach path and I took this route back up to civilisation. You really have to dig your heels in and at times you feel like you're walking a perpendicular strut! Never mind 10,000 steps per day, I often do nearer to 20,000- or even more!
Saying goodbye from the cliff head. Goodbye, St Ives- until next time...
...And goodbye Godrevy Island- there will be a next time!
I'm gonna devote the final part of my blog over to the beautiful sunsets we saw from the terrace of the Bluff Inn.
This picture was taken from my phone...
This picture was taken from my phone...
...And this with my camera...
...Which throws up a bit of glare, but you get the general idea...
Going...
Going...
Gone...
Another day, another sunset. They occurred at around 9pm...
And another day and another sunset. I can understand why J.M.W.Turner spent some time out here painting...
...I bet he didn't have a jet stream in his masterpieces, though!😁
Final day, final sunset...
We'll end this blog with this picture of the moon, high up in the sky whilst the sun was still setting.
Goodnight, beautiful Cornwall.💜
This trip really inspired me. I ordered Virginia Woolf's book, To The Lighthouse (even though she makes the setting of the novel the Isle of Skye, in Scotland) and I also ordered and re-read a Nancy Drew story called The Bluebeard Room, which is set in Cornwall. It might be a novel aimed at teenagers, but I'm glad I revisited it. I've blogged a review of the latter here, and discussed my reasons:-
This holiday was made all the more special because I got home and found out that I'd been accepted to study for a Master's Degree in Creative Writing (long distance learning).
Teesside University, thank you for believing in me. I won't let you- or myself- down.
TTFN
The Miss Elaineous
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