Exmouth sits at the mouth of the River Exe, in Devon, with the name a derivation of the old Celtic word for fish. Byzantine currency has been retrieved from the beach and it was one of only 15 towns to appear on the Roman Era Map.
More recent occupation dates from the 11th century, but commercial trade through the port was limited due to shallow waters and the power of the city of Exeter, which owned the dock and controlled the estuary traffic. Human habitation was restricted due to its harsh, exposed position, and settlement tended to centre around the more clement, surrounding rural areas. Sir Walter Raleigh (1544 or 1552-1618) set sail on many of his expeditions from Exmouth Harbour.
The town established itself in the mid 18th century and is regarded as the oldest holiday destination in Devon. Wealthy visitors were attracted by the fine views and the opportunity to take the medicinal salt waters. Nowadays Exmouth is a regional centre for leisure activities such as bird watching, cycling and walking, and seaborne activities such as wind-surfing, paddleboarding, sailing and jet-skiing.
I was perhaps a bit ungracious when I first had a look at the coast- 'Oh, it's not as nice as Cornwall, but the view's none too shabby,' I said.
That was totally unfair. Yes, the scenery is not as desolate, sandy, rugged and dramatic as that in Cornwall, but we stayed in Sandy Bay, and the coastline is just as attractive. It has a fantastic contrast of colours as it's more bucolic.
Looking east over the red cliffs...
More recent occupation dates from the 11th century, but commercial trade through the port was limited due to shallow waters and the power of the city of Exeter, which owned the dock and controlled the estuary traffic. Human habitation was restricted due to its harsh, exposed position, and settlement tended to centre around the more clement, surrounding rural areas. Sir Walter Raleigh (1544 or 1552-1618) set sail on many of his expeditions from Exmouth Harbour.
The town established itself in the mid 18th century and is regarded as the oldest holiday destination in Devon. Wealthy visitors were attracted by the fine views and the opportunity to take the medicinal salt waters. Nowadays Exmouth is a regional centre for leisure activities such as bird watching, cycling and walking, and seaborne activities such as wind-surfing, paddleboarding, sailing and jet-skiing.
I was perhaps a bit ungracious when I first had a look at the coast- 'Oh, it's not as nice as Cornwall, but the view's none too shabby,' I said.
That was totally unfair. Yes, the scenery is not as desolate, sandy, rugged and dramatic as that in Cornwall, but we stayed in Sandy Bay, and the coastline is just as attractive. It has a fantastic contrast of colours as it's more bucolic.
Looking east over the red cliffs...
Looking west and the sky is just appearing to clear...
On our second day we walked up to the bus stop as we ventured into Exmouth, which was a 20 minute ride away. We caught our bus at Rodney Close (I couldn't help but think of Only Fools And Horses when I heard the name😀) and I took this photo of the sloping field just because I liked the contrast of the crop lines and the angle of the road.
This artistic monument block is at one entrance to Manor Park Gardens, which is on the way away from the town centre and to the seafront. It's entitled Four Faces of Garth Gibson, Town Crier 2000-2009. Tregarthen Gibson was also an author, was 83 when he died and a popular local figure.
I enjoyed venturing into Manor Park Gardens as the name of the area I live in in London is called Manor Park- and, let me tell you, it's waaaaaaaay different to this!
It has a stage and numerous events take place throughout the year.
I stood on the stage and gave my, 'Alas, poor Yorick! I knew him Horatio, a fellow of infinite jest...' speech. I grabbed Dean's head and used it as the representative skull...
The little cafe at the end looked well and truly closed...
Evergreen tree...
I took this photo of the copper beech purely because I love it's fantastic colour. I have been known to dye my hair this shade...
There was actually not one single day during the week when we did not experience rain in one shape or form. It was still spitting down whilst I was strolling on the beach...
Virtually in the water...
I didn't go for a paddle- it was too cold and I'm not that daft- but I did get close!
Back up on the promenade and The Pavilion (where bands often play and where private events are held) is in the distance, along with the Harbour View Cafe and the Ocean Bar and Grill. You can grab a bite to eat and wander around the landscaped gardens...
Looking west and the signposts are pointing the way back into central Exmouth...
These fine houses on the Esplanade and Alexandra Terrace were probably hotels, back in the days when British seaside tourism was at its peak...
The next day, we awoke to encounter another moody sky...
...But walked right down onto Sandy Bay beach...
The beach is actually quite impressive, with soft sand and minimal shingle. Here, we were looking west...
Taking in the colours of the cliffs...
Looking east, and I liked the way the afternoon sunlight reflected off the jutting cliffs...
Dean took this panoramic shot. Which do you prefer- his photo or my photo above?
Bladderwrack...
I had to be arty and take a photo of my elongated shadow...😀
Interesting skies, with clouds shifting across with medium velocity...
This was taken whilst sitting at the deck at the top of the cliffs...
On a different note, this was taken in the evening, and it is.... (drum roll, please...) the entrance to the public loos!!!!
I thought the coloured bricks looked somewhere between Art Deco and Pop Art, so I just had to record them!
My only Exmouth purchase was this gorgeous diamante necklace, found in a junk shop for £5...
The first time we stumbled across Exmouth Museum it was shut, so we made a point of popping back on another day...
We began our tour with a nosey into the Victorian kitchen...
You can make out a Vain Old Tart in the mirror...
The Fifties Dining Room is also at the back of the museum...
Memories of wartime...
...Including 'make do and mend' advice and recipes (some of which looked lovely enough to try...)
Horse collar, to transfer the weight when he's carrying a load...
Historical local memorabilia downstairs. This place is really worth visiting. It will only take up half an hour of your time and they charge £1.50- you don't get a lot for that nowadays.
My favourite part of the museum was this display of Honiton lace. Honiton is only 30 miles from Exmouth and the this kind of lace was made famous when, in 1839, Queen Victoria ordered a Honiton lace bridal dress.
Exmouth roundel...
Moving on to a mock-up of more modern times...
There is a coastal path into Exmouth, so we left our holiday centre behind, climbing northwards. Behind us, looking east is an area often used by the military. We spotted soldiers in training on one of the days we were there, and we definitely heard their gunfire...
Looking down onto the beach. This was a calm, pleasant day.
The walk is mostly rural paths, but there was one set of steps for us to ascend...
Far below you can see a little alcove of beach...
Of course, I was wearing my walking shoes. Well, what I call walking shoes, at any rate...😉
Far below, looking onto a little nook of beach. Dean missed his chance to push me off!
This part of the coastline is known as the Jurassic Coast. It has been officially ranked, along with the Grand Canyon and the Great Barrier Reef, as one of the natural wonders of the world.
The coast provides a walk through time of 185 million years of the earth's history.
Falling back to civilisation, past the odd lookout peak...
Compass...
The 5 metre high Geoneedle is made from the different rocks found along the Jurassic Coast and was unveiled in 2002.
Back down onto concrete...
We walked to the end, and what was once Exmouth Docks is in the distance. It's now been rebranded Exmouth Marina...
By now the weather had turned, and our friend the rain was starting to put in an appearance...
...And finally... This was taken through my window. I loved the peachy-pink colours of this Turner-esque sky...
This was taken from the train window on the way home, and is of the Westbury White Horse, which sits on an escarpment of Salisbury Plain. We'd passed it earlier in the year, when we went on a day trip from Bath (where we were taking a short break) to Stonehenge.
It was restored in 1778, an action which may- or may not- have obliterated another standing horse illustration. There is no evidence of documentation with regard to the existence of a white horse on the slope before 1742.
I also visited the World of Country Life; a rural museum with paddocks. You can feed the red deer if you like, and that was one of the highlights of my week in Exmouth.
Read all about it in my blog post here:-
I also took the bus to A la Ronde; a sixteen-sided, octagonal core house, which dates back to 1796 and contains shell collections and many artistic endeavours.
Read all about it here:-
Yes, I'd certainly give Exmouth a return visit, but maybe in springtime, as opposed to wet autumn (although you never can predict these things...)
TTFN
The Miss Elaineous
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