Sunday, 9 February 2020

MISS ELAINEOUS VISITS CLAREMONT LANDSCAPE GARDEN...

I've visited Painshill, in Surrey, five times, and it was after looking at their website and reading the history of a volunteer's career that I discovered the existence of Claremont Landscape Garden, as that person also used to volunteer here.
It's easier to traverse than 158 acre Painshill being a third of the size, at 49 acres (although at its largest it was 1,500 acres).

Sir John Vanbrugh was a playwright and spy, as well as being the architect of both Blenheim Palace and Castle Howard.  He bought the estate in 1709, and began to develop it for his own personal use, and the garden was created to accompany the original Claremont House.  In 1714 Vanbrugh sold the estate to Thomas Pelham-Holles (twice prime Minister and later Duke of Newcastle).  With the assistance of Vanbrugh and landscape designers Charles Bridgeman and William Kent, Newcastle added the amphitheatre, lake and other key features.

The Duke of Newcastle's excessive spending forced him to mortgage the house to Robert, Lord Clive, known as Clive of India due to him being a commander of the burgeoning British empire.  Clive commissioned Lancelot "Capability" Brown to design a new replacement mansion  (now Claremont Fan Court School next door, which is not open to visitors).  Belvedere Tower also still stands today.  Sadly, Clive committed suicide the same year the house was completed, and never got to live in it.

Princess Charlotte, the nationally adored daughter of the Prince Regent (later George IV) moved into Claremont in 1816 with her new husband, Prince Leopold of Saxe-Coburg.  She spent the happiest days of her life here, but sadly that life was cut short in 1817, when she died giving birth to a stillborn son.  Prince Leopold retained custody of Claremont for the rest of his life, erecting a mausoleum dedicated to his late wife high on the hill.

As a young princess, Queen Victoria loved visiting here as it got her away from her overbearing mother and the stifling atmosphere of Kensington Palace.  In 1866 she secured the estate for herself, and in 1879 passed it to her son Leopold, Duke of Albany.  His widow stayed on here until her own death in 1922, after which most of the estate was sold for development.

The National Trust took guardianship of the remaining 49 acres of of garden in 1949.  
Here is our first view of the tranquil lake.  In 1720 the pond would have been circular, but by 1738 had been transformed into this more informal style which we see today.

The first thing we did was make friends.  We were not feeling our best.  Both the SuperDean and I were recovering from a chest lurgy...

...And the two-plus-mile-walk from the station (it looked a lot shorter than that on the map!) hadn't helped our energy levels...

But we pressed on, and took a soothing meander around this relaxing lake...

...And upwards through this knotty bowery of trees, to a section known as The Mound.

I loved the way the sunlight (it was, thankfully, a bright and dry day😀) shines through the trees here.  I don't even mind the added camera glare!

Roots of the trees as you climb up this natural play area.  There is also a children's playground for smaller (or less adventurous) kids.

Beautiful sunlight over rustic steps...

Felled tree remnants...

View from the top, glancing upon a portion of the lake.  I have to say, there's nothing like a brisk country walk for clearing the sinuses...

I did mince downwards in my shiny shoes.  They were quite flat, but still not exactly practical...

I promised myself a pair of (feminine- colour is important!) walking boots...

Back on terra firma and the island in the centre of the lake is called Belisle.

The Amphitheatre is directly ahead, over the lake...

I included this photo as I love the way these (fixed) chairs have been added to the landscape.  They offer up a certain quaint elegance...

The Island Pavilion was used by the Duke of Newcastle and his wife, Harriet, for writing letters and informal dining.  It had its own kitchen (and, hopefully something resembling a toilet, as the Duke loved to feast on fruit- especially pineapples- which often had unfortunate consequences!)

The Grotto was created in 1750 and, towards the end of his life Newcastle instructed it to be "planted as thick as possible with shrubs."

Gnarly roots...

The Grotto from further around the lake...

The Duke and Duchess of Newcastle had a very happy marriage, but were childless, so it's been suggested that perhaps the garden acted as a substitute family.

Creeping around the lakeside and peering at Belisle and the Island Pavilion.

I took this as I liked the way the trees/ shrubs have been pruned back to nothing at the bottom of the picture...

Island pavilion with a couple of friends to the right...

Gorgeous seats, inscribed with a quote about the garden:
"-constant and never-failing source of amusement."
Princess Charlotte and Prince Leopold, 1817.

The Ha-ha took its present form in the 1770s.

Tree trunk stepping stones...

...Stump of another felled tree...

Impressive fir- and a SuperDean...

I wondered what on earth these metal-looking things were- I thought they looked like WWII individual air raid shelters!

But they were nothing quite so dramatic- they were enclosed seats!

Impressive tree- I'm not sure which variety as I'm not a botanist...

The Camellia Terrace was originally a conservatory made for Princess Charlotte, called the Camellia House...

...The building was demolished in 1959, but some of the original plants remain...

I described the view as, 'Very Tree-ey.' Hardly eloquent.  I think what I meant was the view only consisted of the tops of trees.  Still, it was impressive...

Belvedere through the railings.  Many garden buildings were built, but this is the only one which remains today.

Belvedere was used by the Duke of Newcastle and Vanbrugh as a meeting place for the Kit-Cat Club (a dining club which they were both members of).  A telescope on the roof allowed for stargazing.

The Bowling Green sits at the base of the Belvedere... 

On this site once stood a tea house that remained unfinished at Princess Charlotte's death, in 1817.  Prince Leoplold had it remodelled as a mausoleum.

The inscription reads "My Charlotte has gone."  She was only 21.
Oh, and an intrusive shadow...😉

The Mausoleum was demolished in 1922.  Inside it once stood a bust of Charlotte. 

View down over the Amphitheatre, which was created around 1722...

Tranquil lake...

The sun is offering up a hazy mist...

I'm not sure when the Nine-Pin Alley was originally created...

Dean set it up, then the minute he finished, I took a slug at the skittles with a bowl- and totally missed!

Oh well, I never was much good at sports.  He was a tad more successful and got seven down, using the very weak excuse that "one fell down then wobbled and sat itself back up..."  Yeah, right!

Steps downwards.  As new grass seeds had just been planted, we weren't allowed to traverse these, and had to take a side route through a mini-maze...

Stone Bear...

My favourite- the Peacock...

Newcastle used the original Thatched Cottage as a place for gambling... 

Princess Victoria enjoyed playing here, and you can dress up and role play, too- if your little heart so desires it...

This current Thatched Cottage is actually a late 19th century replacement.

Cottage roof.  As you walk outside, the birds nesting and twittering in this section of the garden make you really feel that you're somewhere exotic, and not good old Blighty in February!

Christmas tree...

Boar.  

View from the bottom of the Amphitheatre...

The sun breaking through the sides of the sky gives an ethereal look to the lake...

Our last view of the lake, before beginning the l-o-n-g walk back to the station (we just got our heads down and got on with it...)

I'll leave you with a photo of more friends.  I believe these are Canada geese...

We stopped off at Cafe Rouge, Esher, which is right near the railway station.
Their classic afternoon tea was lovely.  This is a PDF as I wanted to bother with a picture, but it was too late- Dean had already tucked in and ruined the pretty presentation!

Claremont Landscape Garden, I would definitely give you another go (although the thought of the walk to/ from the station is already making me feel tired...)

TTFN

The Miss Elaineous

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