It was an odd, yet nice, day when we visited Leigh-on-Sea. "Mercurial" is the only way to describe the weather, and rain did indeed stop play, so we left earlier than we thought we would. But we still had a fantastic time, and did everything we wanted to do.
I've also created a YouTube vlog, link:-
On arrival the day was both sunny and cloudy, and here we are walking over Belton Bridge. The town sits on the mudflats of the Thames Estuary, and this is very much an industrial area.
Leigh-on-Sea is commonly referred to simply as Leigh, and has taken part in the fishing industry for nearly 1000 years. On a daily basis local merchants catch, land, process and trade mainly shellfish and whitebait.
Overlooking the water, and the mass topping the sea to the left of the water is the world's longest pier, in neighbouring Southend. The mass over to the right is Kent.
Cod, haddock, mackerel, seabass, lobster, crab, shrimps, whelks, mussels and oysters all pass through here, and are on sale in local shops and restaurants. As a seafood lover, it's such a shame I wasn't in the least bit hungry during my visit!
Walking down into the town, with it's smattering of seaside pubs/ restaurants, with interesting names such as The Crooked Billet. I thought this made for a pretty picture, and particularly like the green "Old Leigh Buoy."
The water looked quite clear as we hugged the seafront- being careful not to fall in, as not every section had barriers...
On a safer section, looking back the way we'd walked, and there was plenty of evidence that these are still working docks...
...Such as this landing deck looming up out of the water...
Historically, many of the fishing trawlers were bawleys- boomless cutter rigs which were possibly named for having an amidships boiler for cooking shrimp.
I don't think I saw any boats resembling a bawley, but it's hard to tell when the sails haven't been hoisted.
The Peterboat pub/ restaurant to the left and Alley Dock to the right.
These paintings are spectacular, and are by Ian Smith and Sheila Appleton. Both have shades of Vincent Van Gogh about them...
It was originally established in 1991 and now houses four artists. These paintings, and the one in the photo below are by Sheila Appleton, the ceramics by Julie O' Sullivan. The latter studied at Central St Martins College of Art and Design.
The studios contain two kilns. I chatted to one of the artists and he said it was a nightmare trying to work there with the kilns firing away during the recent heatwave!
The Coal Hole looks to be some kind of Sea Scouts meeting place. I took a photo because I liked the name, but there didn't appear to be much going on behind the windows.
This curious stone sits between the two sections of The Coal Hole. Known locally as The Cundit, it marks the site of the conduit fountain at the head of the spring which gave the old village its water supply.
Leigh Heritage Centre is located in the Old Smithy, and you can see the sign for adjoining Plumbs Cottage, a substantially rebuilt and restored fisherman's cottage.
On this day the centre was closed, but you can make out the historic range, in this picture taken through the window...
Apologies for the quality of these through-the-window shots. This looks like a recreation of a blacksmith's forge at the back...
By the side of Leigh Heritage Centre, looking through at Plumbs Cottage, and here's a reflected Vain-Old-Tart and a fishy on a dishy...
A tray of mussels at the window of this living area, with the fireplace and dresser visible.
There seemed to be a lot of construction work happening locally. I took this photo as I rather liked the appealing skinny house over the way.
This part of the town is known as Old Leigh, or to locals is simply The Old Town.
A "smack" is a traditional fishing boat- not a punch in the head!
The Old Town dates back to the 11th century, gets a mention in the Domesday Book of 1086 and was once the primary shipping route to London; by the 16th century becoming a prosperous port.
Looking down into a slipway...
But by the 1740s the village was in decline as an anchorage, as the deep water access became silted up.
A closer view of this slipway shows the condition of the water here...
Bell Wharf Beach.
Further along to the left is a path called the Lower Walk/ Cinder Path, which takes you behind Essex Yacht Club.
Walking up the slope of the rail bridge, whilst looking down on The Mayflower, which is a fish and chip restaurant/ take away...
Looking down the tracks and over the water towards Southend, and Leigh is considered a commuter town as it's only 40 miles from London, and well-served by the railway.
We headed up to the Broadway, where the modern shops are, and I thought the house to the left was so pretty, what with its roses. There were serious roadworks going on, which we had to negotiate.
I thought this peach tree, growing around someone's front window, looked really lovely. My immediate thought was of a Bellini cocktail (champagne and peach puree). It would be...😉
Leigh Library was completed in 1838, and was once a rectory, although only one quarter of the original building still stands today. It was Grade II listed in 1974.
At this point the skies opened! But I just put up my umbrella and got on with exploring the shops, of which there's quite an eclectic mix. Like many towns, in the past 30 years Leigh-on-Sea has seen a change in demographics; with the rise of out-of-town shopping centres and the increase in online shopping. It has adapted accordingly; sporting galleries, mini-spas, restaurants, cafes and boutiques. It came across as a tad more pretentious than nearby Southend.
Gypsy Bridge continues in a spiral after crossing the railway line, and connects the town to the beach. It was still tipping down by the time we'd walked back alongside the beach and through the Old Town, so we decided to head for the railway station. I didn't take any more photographs as it simply wasn't practical; I don't have enough hands and certainly not enough coordination to wangle an umbrella and a camera simultaneously and successfully.
I'll leave you with this thought, from fashionista Karl Lagerfeld and seen in a dressmaker's shop that day.
I couldn't agree more with this sentiment. The only correct time to wear sportswear is when working out- that and at no time otherwise.
💓
You can see a reflected Vain-Old-Tart- who doesn't wear jeans and t-shirts, and who's never even owned a pair of sweatpants (urgh!)
It's also interesting that I chose to wear my crown necklace- which I hadn't worn for some time- on this particular day, and its significance was not lost on me...
On the way home I remember looking at my watch (which is a few minutes fast) and it said twenty to three. Later that day it was announced that the Queen had died. The deep, dark web mentions that she died of bone cancer (it wouldn't surprise me- her recent malady certainly seems to point that way), and actually passed away at 2.37pm that day. I have to say, you can pinpoint her deterioration in health as from the time her beloved Prince Philip died.
I've always been a royalist- republicans are colourless and boring. My favourite monarch ever is Charles II, otherwise known as "The Merry Monarch." He had the best hairstyle, too! Yes, I know it was a wig and yes, I know I'm biased- I've been told that if I was a dog (no comments please😉) then I'd be a King Charles Spaniel.
King Charles II.
Rest in peace, Queen Elizabeth II, our beautiful queen.
You will be missed.
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