Wednesday, 8 January 2025

MISS ELAINEOUS VISITS BRIGHTON PAVILION...

 Yes!  They've finally allowed photo-taking in Brighton Pavilion!
Brighton Pavilion was the seaside residence of King George IV (1762-1830).  He reigned from 1820-1830, but was Prince Regent from 1811; meaning he exercised all of the powers of a monarch following his father, George III's, ongoing illness.  

George IV is generally negatively reviewed due to his extravagance, profligacy and dissolute way of life, and is often listed as being the nation's least favourite monarch ever.  I would never dream of giving him such a title!  In my opinion, that accolade belongs to Edward VIII, and I really think that Wallis Simpson did us a favour by aiding this weak individual's eventual abdication.  Her statue should be raised atop the fourth plinth in Trafalgar Square!  George IV- whilst no angel- was a man of style and taste, and the arts flourished during the Regency era.  His influence left the nation not only elegant Regent Street in London, a refurbished Windsor Castle and Buckingham Palace but also the fantastically dramatic, oriental-inspired Brighton Pavilion.

These three exterior pictures, overlooking the visitors' entrance, were taken during a previous, sunny day visit.  This trio were right-first-time photos, and actually required no tweaking.

The Pavilion started off life in 1787; as a more modest neo-classical structure designed by Henry Holland (1745-1806).

John Nash (1752-1835) transformed the house into the Pavilion we know today between 1815-1823.

Back to my grotty day exterior photos, and here's the Indian Gateway, which was completed in 1921, way after George IV's death.  It was a gift from the people of India, to commemorate First World War Indian soldiers who were tended here, when the Pavilion acted as a military hospital.

You can see the Dome Theatre to the left, over the grass.  It was once the Royal Stables.  The Prince Regent was fascinated with the mythical orient, although he never travelled there.  

Overlooking the domed porte cochère (a covered porch for carriages).  In those days it was common for gentlemen to partake of a Grand Tour of Europe, but the furthest the Prince Regent got was Scotland and Ireland.

After passing through an octagonal hall, you find yourself in the Entrance Hall.  The interior decorative scheme was masterminded by artist-designers Frederick Crace and Robert Jones.

The room was set up for Christmas, and the style of decoration prevalent throughout the Pavilion is known as chinoiserie: a European interpretation of Chinese and Sinosphere artistic traditions.

Chinese dragon motifs, and what you we see here is all part of an ongoing restoration that has been taking place since the mid-nineteenth century, after Queen Victoria sold the Pavilion to Brighton.

After George IV died, his brother William V used the Pavilion as a royal residence, as did the next monarch, Queen Victoria.  But she decided to acquire Osbourne House on the Isle of Wight and use it as a private home; probably because the centrally-located Pavilion was more of a bachelor pad, and not suitable for her growing family.

The Long Gallery is richly decorated, and this area once served as as an area for conversation, light musical entertainments or playing cards.

The Gallery is dramatically lit by laylights and chandeliers.  Many things you see here are reproductions, as Queen Victoria ensured that the interior was stripped of practically all furniture and fixtures, including wallpaper.

Another Christmas tree, with decorative fans.
Queen Victoria did, however, return many items; as did subsequent monarchs (in particular Queen Mary; the consort of George V (r. 1910-1936.)

Mirrors throughout the Long Gallery create magical illusions, and the ceiling was purposely low; to create more of a striking contrast with the domed rooms at either end...

...It is certainly a technique that works!
The initial impact is stunning as you enter the Banqueting Room.

George IV held elaborate banquets here, and guests marvelled at the opulent decoration.  The central chandelier is 30ft long and weighs a ton!

Generally, the King would entertain no more than thirty or so guests here.  Nowadays, the table display is a compromise between authenticity and practicality.

The ceiling design is part-painting and part-relief, and the room has an almost theatrical spirit.

The chandelier is a magnificent composition of fabulous beasts, and features a silvered dragon and six smaller dragons.

The smaller chandeliers in this room are equally dazzling, as are the furnishings; no doubt intended to display wealth and status.

This room is known as the the Deckers' Room or Pages' Room, and functioned as a service area.  It is currently showing desserts displayed on silverware.

The Great Kitchen was sometimes also known as the "King's Kitchen."  George IV was delighted with both the design and equipment, and would take his guests to inspect and admire this room.

This is where splendid banquets were created.  George IV led an exorbitant lifestyle and, when entertaining, the menu could contain as many as 100 individual dishes. 

On a daily basis George IV consumed a very rich diet and gluttony, coupled with his addiction to laudanum and copious consumption of alcohol, led to extreme ill health in the later years of his life.

The visitor route takes you back through the Banqueting Room, and the Pavilion was heated by a combination of coal fires and an under-floor hot-air ventilation system.

We ventured down the Banqueting Room Gallery, which was once two rooms; an anteroom and a breakfast room, before being combined to be used as an area where guests could indulge in after dinner liqueurs, conversation and occasional dancing.

I love the palm tree detailing prevalent at the top of the columns.

And now we come to my favourite room- the Saloon.  It has been refurbished in the years that I've been visiting the Pavilion.  Indeed, I remember it being inaccessible whilst the works were being carried out, from 2015-2018.

Before that it was decorated differently, with a yellow colour scheme and a round table in the centre of the room.  It has been redeveloped to look as it originally did in 1826; according to a John Nash print.

This opulent room is the central room of the early building, and is one of the oldest parts of the Pavilion.  It is the "sky" ceiling which really grabs my attention, though- I love, love LOVE it!

This ostentatious room was a formal reception room, where George IV would greet his guests before dinner.  It was designed to reflect the King's status and make an impression.

The attention to every single attribute throughout the building is immense- I do like these serpents, which appear to be climbing a palm tree.

The Music Gallery was designed as a place where guests could relax in calmness after experiencing the grandeur of the state rooms.

The room would also have been used for small concerts and recitals.

And now we come to the unbelievably sumptuous Music Room.  The King's own band would lead the entertainment of an evening; with the King himself often joining in; playing the piano and singing.  
 
The splendour of this room is really something to behold, and it has nine lotus-shaped chandeliers.  The carpet would have been rolled back for dancing. 

The gilt dome is decorated with gilded shells, which get smaller and darker towards their apex, to create the illusion of height.

Sadly, this room has encountered disaster following extensive 20th century refurbishment.  It was severly damaged by fire in 1975, following an arson attack, then during the great storm of 1987 a stone ball fell through the newly-decorated ceiling, embedding itself in the newly-laid carpet.

 I remember visiting and seeing this clock when it was a work in progress- it was just a plaster shell, without gilding or a face!

The man himself: King George IV.  This picture is actually a micro-mosaic, and is a copy of a painting by Sir Thomas Lawrence.

The King's Apartments, and the King moved his bedroom down from the first floor as he became hugely overweight and unwieldy.  You can make out an access door to the right.

A Japanese lacquered cabinet continues the elegant Eastern theme...

The chandelier and ceiling was my favourite part of this room...

Looking down into the library, and the King's apartments comprised a bedroom, bathroom, dressing room, library and anteroom.  This is a view down the length of the library...

Again, it's the ceiling that I find really wonderful.  I adore the "sky" effect that's been utilised in more tham one room in the Pavilion.

View back down the library, past the twin globes.  Christmas trees abounded- I think they had one displayed in every single downstairs room.

The final room of this complex, and the King suffered from numerous conditions including gout, arteriosclerosis, dropsy, cataracts and possible porphyria.  In the later years of his life he didn't like being seen, and had tunnels built below the Pavilion so that he could move from one area to another undetected by the public.

We climbed the North Staircase (which I've also seen referred to as the Bamboo Stairs).  The banisters are made of cast iron and designed to imitate bamboo. 

The beautiful skylight as you pass through here...

The North Galleries, and yet another Christmas tree!  Still, it did give the Pavlion a truly festive feel.

The South Galleries were used as breakfast rooms for George IV's guests, and here's a Vain Old Tart (looking a tad bedraggled, I have to admit!)

The skylight ceiling, and these galleries do seem to change use.  I have seen a rather excellent exhibition dedicated to Princess Charlotte (George IV's daughter, who died in childbirth), although that may have been on the ground floor.  They also used to house a tearooom up here, and it's now next to the shop downstairs.

They also have changeable exhibitions up here; generally speaking regarding WWI, as the Pavilion served as a hospital then.  The current exhibition is devoted to Indian soldiers who served in the Great War.

The Yellow Bow Rooms were used by the King's brothers: the Duke of York and the Duke of Clarence (later William V).

The walls are chrome yellow (a colour not commercially available until 1818) and considered a modern and innovative choice.  The beds are furnished with a reproduced chintz,

Queen Victoria's Bedroom, and her mahogany four poster bed.

Queen Victoria's maid would have slept here.

Queen Victoria's khazi.  
Someone did ask me why there are two holes, and I answered that the second hole was a holder for her cup of tea or her gin & tonic!

Descending via the South Staircase, with more Chinese figures standing sentinel...

A Chinese-style hexagonal urn and more bamboo banisters.  The attention to detail throughout is exquisite.

I did love this special touch- one of a few I saw throughout the pavilion.  Here we have mice playing chess and a hungry watching cat!

Walking round the outside of the building, overlooking the Eastern Lawns...

It was almost Christmas, and an ice skating rink was set up.  Did I have a go?  No bloody way- I'm a tad too clumsy to be overeager to participate!

A semi-view of the magnificent domes, and a café and Christmas shop was temporarily in place in the grounds...

The Saloon dome peeking up, and I will return to take a couple of piccies once the lawn is clear.

I thought I'd leave you with the Hollywood-style staircase in my hotel...

I just had to have a swagger and poise walking down here; in heels, of course...😉

Brighton, and Brighton Pavilion, I will return.

Until then,

TTFN,

Miss Elaineous

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