Wednesday 22 November 2023

MISS ELAINEOUS VISITS GREAT YARMOUTH (YET AGAIN!)

This is going to be a very brief blog as it's not my first trip to Great Yarmouth- I counted, and it's my 15th as an adult.   We stayed for a long weekend in a Premier Inn near the railway station.

 It wasn't that cold for November- a tad crisp, sometimes rainy, but certainly bearable.  On our first night we went for dinner and a walk down Marine Parade, and it was good to see all of Britannia Pier's lights in working order (that isn't always the case, and sometimes you feel like the pier is playing a game of hangman with you!)

The Silver Slipper amusement arcade.  As a shoe lover I just had to photograph this sign!
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The Golden Nugget amusement arcade.  To the right of the photo you can make out the Fish & Grill, where we ate.  The deep fried calamari rings here are excellent, and as big as tractor tyres!

Sunlight descending over the River Bure, photographed as walked around from the back of our hotel one morning.

The same river on a different, drizzly day, and you can make out the book memorial in the centre of the photo.  
Built in 1829, a suspension bridge crossed the river very near here, until 1845 when a terrible disaster took place.  Viewers gathered to watch Nelson the clown being pulled by geese down the river in a tub as part of a circus promotional stunt.  Thousands stood on the river banks and hundreds on the bridge.  But the bridge couldn't take the weight of the spectators and collapsed, throwing most into the water and killing 79.

This memorial was unveiled in 2013, and lists the 79 victims, along with their ages.  59 were children.  It is made of granite and stands 1.4m high.
The sad disaster is noted as being "the largest recorded loss of life" in Great Yarmouth.

It is so upsetting to see the beautiful Victoria Arcade- opened in 1926 and updated in 1987- mostly empty and devoid of shops.  Several businesses have either moved or closed during my time (since 2011) coming to Great Yarmouth. 

I know us consumers are partly to blame- the internet is now the world's biggest shop.  But there will always be people who want to go shopping; enjoy the experience and who want to handle goods, try on clothes and play with gadgets, etc.  I hope landlords and councils are doing all they can to encourage shopping back into the town centre.

Down Row 46 is this little beauty; an original Thomas Crapper manhole cover.  These are rare!  Crapper (1836-1910) didn't invent the water closet- he was a Yorkshire-born plumber and businessman who just improved upon it, and perhaps had the perfect name for such an association.  One story is that crap was originally an American term for rubbish, and the name evolved to mean a bowel movement after WWI, when US servicemen were stationed in Britain.  But the word crap is also thought to be of Middle English (1066-C15) origin, again referring to rubbish and first logged (yes, I'm aware of the double entendre!) in writing in 1846 as a term for bodily waste.

Looking down Row 89, which is known as Old Hannah's Row (although I've also seen it listed as Old Hannah's Back Row, Herring's Row and Hans Hering Row) and this is the back of Great Yarmouth's only surviving 17th century urban jettied timber framed building.  It's the building to the left, and this particular row is off King Street.

Oddly- although I'm sure the people responsible knew what they were doing- it looks like its been over-restored, and has lost authenticity.  

Looking over to St George's Theatre, which was originally commissioned as a chapel in 1714.  It was deconsecrated in 1959 and fell into disrepair, before being established as an arts centre and theatre in the early 1970s.
It hasn't been without its problems- from 2006 it was shrouded in scaffolding as the building suffered with structural defects.  In particular, the tower was unstable, and I have heard it referred to as "the leaning tower of Yarmouth!"  2009 lottery funding ensured its restoration and survival.

The Royal Hotel, and Charles Dickens stayed here whilst writing David Copperfield, which is considered to be autobiographical.  Great Yarmouth features as a key location in the novel.


This plaque on the front of the hotel lists the dates of Dickens' residence as 1848-49.


We nipped inside the Empire building; a live music venue and nightclub which is also open during the day.
Here is the view towards the back, where there are comfortable lounge seats, a stage and a cocktail bar.

Back towards the entrance, and they also serve various kinds of street food in little alcoves to the side.


Standing at the door looking all the way down, and it looked fantastically sparkly and impressive.

This guy stands out side a joke shop, sicking up.  Yes, I know I'm lavatorial but that's a bit revolting even for my sensibilities!


We took a walk around the Waterways, and here's the morning sun glinting over the lake nearest the vast expanse of sand dunes.

Sand In Your Eye created this 2019 sculpture which sits in the railway station.  It's a replica of Greater Anglia's new trains, the sculptors worked on site and it took three days to complete.

I have three older Great Yarmouth blogs for you to look at.

This huge blog features the Tolhouse Museum, Caister Lifeboat and the (now sadly gone) Nelson Museum:-

This smaller blog shows you Anna Sewell's birth place and the Nelson Monument:-

This depicts my ride on the observation wheel on the seafront, and also details the Caister lions:-

Great Yarmouth, of course I will return!

Until then,

TTFN

Miss Elaineous

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