Tuesday 7 May 2024

MISS ELAINEOUS VISITS BARKING ABBEY...

 I think this is something that can be described as more of a "look" than a "visit" as there's really not that much of Barking Abbey, Essex, to see.  What there is, however, is interesting enough.

Outside was a timeline regarding the Abbey's history, and it was established circa 666 AD and disestablished in 1539, during the dissolution of the monasteries.  Thanks to Royal grants Barking Abbey was once the second richest abbey in England, runner-up only to Shaftesbury Abbey in Dorset.

A closer view, and Barking Abbey was founded by St Erkenwald and was a "double house" meaning both nuns and monks lived here.  St Ethelburga- the sister of Erkenwald- served as the first abbess.

I entered via the Curfew Tower, which is the only remaining notable remnant of the abbey.  The original tower was built in 1370, but this one dates back to 1460.

Some parts of the tower still date from the 14th century...

The roof inside this Grade II listed  medieval tower.  The tower has been repaired several times, and was extensively restored in 2005/2006, which cost £130,000. 

Descriptive and informative plaque inside the tower, and the tower is also known as the Fire Bell Gate.

The Fire Bell Gate refers to when the bell would have been rung to signify the time had arrived for the putting out of fires and candles, in preparation for bedtime.
The door to the tower, off to one side.

The word curfew means "cover your fire."  It comes from old French word cuevrefeu, which derives from cuvir- to cover, and feu- fire.

Standing back, and it was not easy to get a decent piccie of the back of the Curfew Tower for all of the fecund foliage in the graveyard!

On entering the abbey's grounds there is another information board.
The abbey was destroyed by Vikings in 871 AD and restored about a century later as a single-sex Benedictine nunnery. 

The remains of the abbey...
Benedictine is a "moderate" order, where nothing harsh or burdensome in the way of behaviours was dictated.  Instead, the days revolved around what we would call a work-life-balance; between spiritual responsibilities and daily chores.  Everything had to be done in moderation.

A dowry was needed to join Barking Abbey, so it became a nunnery of choice for upper-class women. 

There were several of these little fellas playing here!😀
The Abbess of Barking held precedence over every other abbess in England.  Originally the King appointed the abbess, but under the rule of King John (r.1199-1216) that changed, and the nuns then elected their abbess themselves.  

More grey squirrels havin' fun amongst the ruins!
Several saints, former queens and daughters of kings served as abbess here, including three Maudes- the wife of Henry I, the wife of King Stephen and the daughter of Henry II.

At the time Barking estate stretched from Southend to the Tower of London, and was large enough for William the Conqueror (r.1066-1087) and his followers to stay here whilst the Tower was being built.

Mary, the sister of murdered Archbishop of Canterbury, Thomas Becket (1118-1170), was appointed abbess in 1173, in reparation for his murder.

These steps are obviously modern.
There is no doubt that the abbey was once very rich.  Excavations have revealed fine Spanish and Italian imported pottery, rare coloured glass vessels, elaborate and jewelled bone combs worn by the women; and evidence that they wove gold thread into their church vestments.

Large numbers of writing implements (known as styluses or styli) were also excavated, proving that the inhabitants were educated.
St Ethelburga is known as the first woman playwright. 

Incidentally writer, philosopher and advocate of women's rights Mary Woollstonecraft (1759-1797)- mother of Mary Shelley of Frankenstein fame- was brought up in Barking.  Prison and social reformer Elizabeth Fry (1780-1845) is buried nearby.

People who believed they were possessed by evil spirts would come to see the Abbess of Barking to be exorcised, and it's said that it's from that ritual that the phrase "barking mad" originates!

Halloween trick or treating is also said to originate from here, as people were sent to the abbey to be cured of witchcraft.  That also takes into account that the date of the abbey's founding- 666- is the devil's number!


In 1377 a large portion- around 720 acres- of the abbey's lands near the River Thames flooded, causing severe devastation which the abbey never completely recovered from.

In 1539 the abbey surrendered to the crown during the dissolution of the monasteries.  Anything of value was sold off and demolition of the abbey began in 1540.
The abbess and 30 nuns residing here were all granted pensions.

Here's a set of old steps with a set of more modern (but well worn) steps.
As I said, there really is not much to see- but the remaining walls and stairs are quite atmospheric and this place is certainly worth a wander around.

The Saint's Chapel once stood on this area.  It was created after the chapel was rebuilt, after being destroyed by Vikings.  The remnants and relics of St Ethelburga, St Hildelith, St Tortgith and St Wulfhilda were all interred here.

St Margaret's Church is Grade I listed, dates back to the 13th century and sits in the grounds of Barking Abbey.

Explorer Captain James Cook (1728-1779) was married here, as was England football champion Bobby Moore (1941-1993).

This was a fascinating little graveyard- I'm always intrigued by these "museums of the dead." 

The wonky tree made for a good photo, but the graves to either side of it are of interest.
The white grave to the right is the only painted grave in this graveyard, and belongs to Thomas Nepton; a City of London poulterer who died in 1724.  He decreed that his grave be painted and it does stand out somewhat.

I'm not sure what this monument signifies- there were no discernible markings on it.  I have read that obelisks are an Egyptian symbol, and they represent eternal life and heaven, and can also represent the rays of the sun shining down forever on the deceased (I took these photos on two different days, and on this day there was indeed sunshine!)

I was intrigued by the skulls holding the obelisk up, and also the markings on the side, which look like cherubs.  Cherubs represent spiritual resurrection.

Skulls are death's head imagery, and Little Miss Macabre just had to sneak in for a close-up!😁

This grave had worn and knobbly stones on it pushed into its top coat of cement.  To me they looked like grey Maltesers!

Outside of the abbey, by the wall was this set of mini-stairs.  I was intrigued by where they originally led or what purpose they served...

The  squirrels here appeared to be quite tame, but soon scuttled off when they realised I had no food to give them!

I loved this tree, which I nicknamed "The leaning Tower of Treesa..."  Yes, I'm aware that I'm not right in the head!

Probably the clearest Curfew Tower photo I managed to take from this side, peeking out between the trees.

Just across the road from Barking Abbey is Cristina's, The Casual Steakhouse, and I thought their pink and white cow (I take it that means this particular one is served rare?!😁) funny and quirky, and worthy of a piccie!

After two explores, I think I am done with Barking Abbey for now.

TTFN

Miss Elaineous

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